Guide to photographing musical instruments

For a relevant defect, take two types of image:

1. a wider view showing where it is located;
2. a close-up showing the defect itself.

A close-up alone can remove the sense of scale. An overall view alone may make the defect too difficult to see.

Where possible, use lighting that makes the defect readable without artificially exaggerating it.

Before exporting, compare the actual item with the photographs on screen.

Do not try to make the finish more intense or vivid than it really is.

Pay particular attention to:

• sunburst finishes;
• reds;
• blues;
• natural wood;
• metallic finishes;
• yellowed plastics;
• black surfaces.

Small differences between displays are normal; an obvious change introduced by editing is avoidable.

Check:

• [ ] main view;
• [ ] front;
• [ ] rear;
• [ ] sides where useful;
• [ ] panels and connections;
• [ ] serial number or plate;
• [ ] high-wear areas;
• [ ] defects;
• [ ] visible modifications;
• [ ] included accessories;
• [ ] category-specific shots.

If an important piece of information is missing, take the photograph before dismantling the setup.

Add close-up photographs of:

• frets in the first positions;
• frets around the middle of the neck;
• bridge and saddles;
• tuners;
• pickups;
• pickguard;
• pots and switches;
• body edges;
• any cracks or marks.

To show fret wear, use moderately directional light and precise focus.

There is no need to photograph every single fret; representative, readable images are enough.

When visible and safely accessible, photograph:

• speakers;
• speaker labels;
• tubes;
• externally visible transformers;
• accessible fuses;
• connectors;
• disclosed modifications.

Do not open a chassis or access areas containing dangerous voltages merely to obtain photographs.

Documentation should stop where unsafe technical intervention would begin.

For multi-effects, pedalboards and digital units, add a powered-on image where useful.

Show:

• readable display;
• LEDs;
• any error messages;
• general condition of switches;
• main ports.

A powered-on photo does not prove every function, but it can document the display condition and basic startup.

Avoid exposure settings that make the screen completely white or unreadable.

Add details of:

• yellowed, damaged or marked keys;
• encoders;
• faders;
• buttons;
• joystick or wheels;
• display;
• rear ports;
• power connection;
• panel scratches;
• damaged side panels.

If the display has lines, defective pixels or dim areas, photograph it powered on with an exposure that makes the issue readable.

For cymbals, photograph:

• entire top surface;
• underside;
• edge;
• bell;
• centre hole;
• logos and markings;
• any cracks or keyholing.

For stands and pedals, show:

• joints;
• threads;
• clamps;
• chains or drive systems;
• feet;
• corroded areas.

Raking light can help reveal fine cracks and edge deformation.

Crop to remove unnecessary empty space, but leave enough margin to understand shape and proportions.

For close-ups, preserve enough context to identify the photographed area.

Avoid resizing or compressing images to the point where:

• serial numbers are no longer readable;
• scratches disappear;
• texture and wear become indistinct;
• panel text becomes unreadable.

Keep a high-quality original before any resizing for publication.

Before taking the photo, tap the main area of the item on screen and check that it is sharp.

In low light, the phone may use a slower shutter speed. In that case:

• support the device;
• use both hands;
• use a tripod;
• increase the available light.

After each group of shots, zoom into at least one image to check detail and sharpness.

Do not wait until the end of the session to discover that the serial number or defects are out of focus.