Shots by instrument type

For a guitar or bass, include at least:

• full front view;
• full rear view;
• front and back of the body;
• front and back of the headstock;
• neck;
• neck joint where relevant;
• bridge;
• visible electronics;
• output jack;
• included accessories.

For acoustic instruments, also show the soundhole, bridge, sides and back.

Keep the neck easy to read and avoid close ultra-wide perspectives that distort its apparent length.

For an amplifier, photograph:

• front view;
• rear view;
• control panel;
• inputs and outputs;
• corners and covering;
• handles;
• feet;
• identification plate.

For a combo, also show the speaker where it is accessible without improper disassembly.

If a head and cabinet are sold separately, avoid images that make an unincluded component appear to be part of the sale.

For a pedal, photograph:

• complete top surface;
• controls;
• footswitch;
• inputs and outputs;
• power connection;
• sides;
• underside;
• serial number or label;
• any hook-and-loop material;
• scratches and marks on edges.

If the box, manuals or power supply are included, add a separate image showing the included items.

For synths and keyboards, photograph:

• complete top or slightly angled view;
• keybed;
• control panel;
• display;
• side panels;
• rear;
• connections;
• underside where relevant.

Avoid photographing very close with an ultra-wide lens, as keys near the edges can appear distorted.

For long instruments, it may be better to step back and crop moderately afterwards.

For shells and snare drums, photograph:

• complete view;
• exterior finish;
• hoops;
• lugs;
• tension rods;
• badge;
• interior when easily accessible;
• bearing edge when visible without improper intervention;
• included legs and mounts.

Document scratches, finish cracks, corrosion and replaced parts.

If selling a kit, add photographs of individual components so that the overall image does not hide important details.

For interfaces, rack units, mixers, preamps and processors, photograph:

• overall view;
• front panel;
• rear panel;
• inputs;
• outputs;
• power connection;
• serial number;
• display;
• controls;
• any marked rack ears.

Keep the camera parallel to the panel for documentary shots so that labels and connectors remain readable.

For cymbals, photograph:

• entire top surface;
• underside;
• edge;
• bell;
• centre hole;
• logos and markings;
• any cracks or keyholing.

For stands and pedals, show:

• joints;
• threads;
• clamps;
• chains or drive systems;
• feet;
• corroded areas.

Raking light can help reveal fine cracks and edge deformation.

Add close-up photographs of:

• frets in the first positions;
• frets around the middle of the neck;
• bridge and saddles;
• tuners;
• pickups;
• pickguard;
• pots and switches;
• body edges;
• any cracks or marks.

To show fret wear, use moderately directional light and precise focus.

There is no need to photograph every single fret; representative, readable images are enough.

Add details of:

• yellowed, damaged or marked keys;
• encoders;
• faders;
• buttons;
• joystick or wheels;
• display;
• rear ports;
• power connection;
• panel scratches;
• damaged side panels.

If the display has lines, defective pixels or dim areas, photograph it powered on with an exposure that makes the issue readable.

When visible and safely accessible, photograph:

• speakers;
• speaker labels;
• tubes;
• externally visible transformers;
• accessible fuses;
• connectors;
• disclosed modifications.

Do not open a chassis or access areas containing dangerous voltages merely to obtain photographs.

Documentation should stop where unsafe technical intervention would begin.