Guitars

Electric, acoustic, classical and semi-acoustic guitars, plus ukuleles, mandolins and banjos. Compare instrument type, construction, configuration and condition.

Showing 1 to 24 of 211 results
Previous
Page 1 of 9

Start with the instrument family, not the logo

A guitar search gets easier once the instrument type is clear. Electric guitars depend on pickups and amplification; solid-body construction, scale length, bridge design and pickup layout can make two superficially similar models feel very different. Acoustic guitars are more strongly shaped by body format, bracing, top construction and string choice. A classical guitar uses nylon strings and normally gives the left hand a wider platform than a steel-string acoustic.

Semi-acoustic and semi-hollow designs sit closer to the electric-guitar world than to an acoustic fitted with a pickup. Ukuleles, mandolins and banjos belong in the wider fretted-instrument family, but their tuning, scale and playing approach deserve to be compared on their own terms.

Specs that actually affect playability

Brand and model are useful shortcuts, but the practical measurements matter more once you start comparing individual instruments. Look at scale length, nut width, neck profile, fingerboard radius, fret size and setup. On an electric guitar, pickup configuration and bridge type determine how the instrument is adjusted and how it interfaces with the rest of the rig. On an acoustic, body dimensions, cutaway, electronics and string gauge change how it behaves in everyday use.

Do not use wood species as a single-variable prediction of tone. The finished instrument is the result of construction, dimensions, hardware, electronics and setup working together.

Used guitars need a condition check, not just a price check

A useful used listing should make it possible to assess fret wear, neck condition, bridge, nut, tuners, electronics and any repairs or modifications. Replaced pickups, tuners or hardware may be perfectly functional, but they should be identified because they alter the original specification.

With acoustic and classical instruments, inspect the top, bridge area, sides and back for cracks, lifting or obvious deformation. With electrics, check whether controls work cleanly, whether hardware is complete and whether the neck can still be adjusted correctly.

Build the comparison around how you will use it. Studio, stage, travel and home practice put different demands on an instrument. A light electric with stable hardware may matter more for long sets; an acoustic player may prioritise body comfort or onboard electronics; a classical player may care first about neck width and scale. The useful comparison is between measurable features and your actual use, not a generic label such as “beginner” or “professional”.

Related sections include Guitar accessories and Parts and accessories.

Explore also: classical guitars, semi-acoustic guitars, Guitar Strings.

From a broad category to a precise comparison

Choosing Guitars requires more than finding two listings with the same label. Compare the complete model code, revision and included equipment because a version made for another instrument, market or production period may use different dimensions, connections or compatible parts. When the listing does not show those details, request photographs of labels and decision-making areas before comparing price.

Use Electric guitars, Acoustic guitars, Guitar accessories, Parts and accessories and classical guitars to confirm that the item belongs in the intended branch. This prevents a complete system, an accessory and a replacement part from being treated as equivalents. The category guides discovery; the individual listing must then establish identity, operation and everything included in the sale.

Information to verify before making contact

A useful description separates observable facts from opinion. Model, dimensions, connectors, power requirements, included components and faults should be stated in a way the buyer can verify. Words such as “professional”, “vintage” or “perfect” do not replace those details and do not establish authenticity, compatibility or value.

For used equipment, ask when the item was tested, which functions were checked and what work it has received. A modification may be useful, but the listing should identify the work, parts and reversibility. Shipping also depends on weight, moving parts, protection and packing: a working item can still be damaged when it is not immobilised and protected correctly.

FAQ

Start with instrument type, then compare scale length, neck dimensions, fret condition, setup, bridge and electronics where applicable. Those details usually tell you more about fit and usability than a broad style label.
Not necessarily. A pickup, tuner or bridge change can be useful, neutral or undesirable depending on the work and your needs. The important point is that modifications are documented and that compatibility and workmanship can be assessed.
Usually yes. Body shape, depth, overall length and headstock clearance differ enough that case fit should be checked against the actual instrument rather than the word “guitar” alone.
Request the exact model code, photographs of wear areas, a test of the main functions and a complete list of included accessories or spare parts. Ask the seller to disclose servicing, modifications and faults rather than inferring them from cosmetic condition alone.