Used gear pricing 101: how to find the real market value of your guitar, amp or synth

If you’ve ever tried to sell a used guitar, amp or synth, you know the feeling: you think you’ve got a gem, buyers offer half your asking price, and on other sites you see the same model listed for totally different amounts.

So… who’s right?

The truth is that the real market value of a used instrument is not the original price, not what you paid, and not the highest listing you’ve seen. It’s what people are actually willing to pay today for that specific instrument in those specific conditions.

In this guide we’ll walk through:

• what "real market value" means for used musical gear;
• the main factors that push prices up or down for guitars, amps and synths;
• how to run proper market research using listings (including on Muviber);
• how to build a realistic price range instead of guessing a single number;
• a quick checklist to protect yourself both as a seller and as a buyer.

To get an immediate feel for real-world prices, you can browse Muviber searches like:

• used electric guitars
• used guitar amps
• used synths and keyboards

1. What "market value" really means for used gear

When we say real market value, we’re not talking about:

• the original list price when it was new;
• the price you personally paid years ago;
• the highest listing you can find online.

Market value is much closer to:

the price at which similar items are actually being bought and sold right now.

That means a single crazy listing doesn’t define the market. What matters is the cluster of realistic prices for similar instruments, in similar condition, in the current demand.

2. The key factors that shape used gear prices

To understand what a guitar, amp or synth is really worth, you need to look at a mix of factors.

2.1 Brand, model and tier

• big, in-demand brands (Fender, Gibson, Marshall, Moog, etc.) tend to hold value better;
• iconic or sought-after models (signature, limited editions, classic vintages) usually sit higher;
• budget lines from lesser-known brands tend to depreciate faster.

2.2 Cosmetic and functional condition

Most people think in broad condition categories:

• Mint / as new: virtually flawless;
• Excellent / Very good: light signs of use, nothing major;
• Good: visible wear but structurally and electronically sound;
• Fair / beater: heavy wear, dings, scratches, maybe cosmetic damage;
• Not working / for parts: needs repair or is only useful as a donor.

The further you go down that list, the more you should move down from the average price.

2.3 Completeness: case, docs, accessories

Small details can add up:

• original hard case or quality gigbag;
• manuals, certificates, hang tags, covers, original power supplies;
• well-documented quality upgrades (pickups, tuners, tubes, etc.).

A clean, complete, ready-to-play instrument will often fetch noticeably more than a dusty, incomplete one.

2.4 Demand, supply and location

• if there are tons of listings and little demand, prices slide down;
• if there’s scarce supply and high demand, prices naturally rise;
• in some regions certain brands and eras are more desirable than others.

Shipping costs also matter: large, heavy items (combos, 4x12 cabs, stage pianos) are harder to move long distance, which can affect what buyers are willing to pay.

3. How to do real market research before fixing a price

Before you throw a number out there, do this three-step homework.

3.1 Study active listings

1. Search for gear similar to yours:

   • guitars similar to yours
   • amps similar to yours
   • synths and workstations similar to yours

2. Tighten the filters as much as you can:

   • same brand and model;
   • similar year or production run;
   • comparable condition.

3. Write down the asking prices and ignore the extreme outliers (ridiculously low or unrealistically high).

3.2 Look for patterns and price clusters

Where possible, try to see:

• the typical asking range for your model;
• how quickly listings disappear (fast = price was attractive);
• differences between variants of the same model (e.g. MIJ vs MIM, reissue vs original).

3.3 Compare to current new prices (without falling in love with them)

Check how much it costs new today, but use that as a rough guide only:

• entry-level gear often drops to 40–50% of new;
• mid-range instruments may sit around 60–70%;
• high-end, boutique or truly desirable vintage gear can hold value longer, sometimes even appreciate.

4. Build a price range, not a single magic number

Once you’ve done your homework, instead of saying “it’s worth 800 €” try to think in ranges:

• high end of the range: what a patient seller might ask with excellent condition and no rush;
• mid range: where most sensible listings seem to land;
• low end: the price to move it quickly.

Then place yourself honestly:

• need to free up cash or space fast? → aim near the lower end;
• your instrument is in top-notch condition and you’re not in a hurry? → position yourself towards the higher end, but still within reason.

Remember, pricing isn’t permanent. You can adjust after a few weeks based on the feedback and messages you get.

5. Adjusting for condition, mods and issues

5.1 Cosmetic condition

Compared to the typical asking price you found:

• if your gear is noticeably cleaner than average, you can often add 5–10%;
• if it’s more worn (dings, scratches, unintentional relic), you may want to drop 10–15%.

5.2 Mods and upgrades

Not all mods add value:

• widely desired upgrades (well-known pickups, quality tuners, tubes, etc.) can justify a bump;
• very personal or irreversible mods (wild paint jobs, heavy routing, experimental wiring) often narrow your audience and may push the price down.

Golden rule: document your mods clearly with photos, specs and, if possible, receipts.

5.3 Functional issues

Every issue should show up in the price:

• scratchy pots;
• dead or intermittent switches/keys;
• suspicious noises in tube amps;
• weird behaviour in synths (glitchy encoders, unstable OS).

Either fix it before selling, or factor a realistic tech bill into your asking price.

6. Classic mistakes in used gear pricing

1. Basing your price on what you paid: the market doesn’t care; it only sees today’s reality.
2. Using a single listing as reference: you always want a cluster, not a lone outlier.
3. Ignoring shipping and hassle: big, heavy, fragile items are simply harder to sell.
4. Overvaluing mods: 200 € in upgrades doesn’t automatically mean +200 € on resale.
5. Confusing old with valuable: age alone doesn’t equal vintage desirability.

7. Quick checklist for pricing a used guitar, amp or synth

Before you set your price, make sure you can answer:

1. Have I found at least 3–5 comparable listings? (same model, tier, condition)
2. Do I know what condition category my gear really belongs to?
3. Is it complete (case, PSU, manuals, footswitch, etc.)?
4. Are my mods likely to be desirable for most buyers?
5. Are there functional problems I should be honest about?
6. Do I need to sell quickly, or can I wait?

If you’ve answered honestly, your number will already be more realistic than most listings out there.

8. Guitars, amps and synths: what matters most

8.1 Guitars

Key points that affect price:

• build quality and wood selection;
• neck stability and fret condition;
• noise-free, well-shielded electronics;
• overall setup (action, intonation, neck relief).

A modest guitar with a great setup can often command a better price than a "better" guitar left untouched and hard to play.

8.2 Amps

For amps, take a close look at:

• tube health for tube amps;
• hum, buzz, crackles or other noises;
• speaker and cabinet condition;
• presence of the original footswitch and cover.

A recently serviced amp with an invoice from a reputable tech is much easier to sell at a fair price.

8.3 Synths and keyboards

For synths and keyboards, focus on:

• keyboard feel (no sticky or misaligned keys);
• readable display;
• solid, non-wobbly encoders and pots;
• updated firmware where relevant;
• working presets, memory and storage.

Again, clear photos, a detailed description and even a short demo video go a long way.

9. Using Muviber as a pricing compass

When you list or search for gear on Muviber you can:

• quickly compare similar instruments by category and keyword;
• see how other sellers describe condition, mods and included extras;
• get a fast sense of the real price range for your model.

Before listing, try this:

1. search your model or close variants;
2. note 5–10 realistic asking prices;
3. place your listing inside that range according to your priorities (speed vs. maximum return).

The same logic helps as a buyer: if a listing sits way above the cluster, ask what you’re really getting for the premium; if it’s too low, ask why.

FAQ – Used gear pricing questions

Can I really resell a piece of gear for what I paid?

Sometimes, but not usually. If you bought it new, you’ve already paid tax, shop margin and initial depreciation. If you bought it used at a good price or the model has become more desirable, you can get close or occasionally even make a small profit.

How much should I knock off for obvious cosmetic damage?

There’s no fixed rule, but heavy cosmetic wear often means a 10–20% drop compared to similar items in very good shape, assuming they function the same.

Do mods always increase value?

No. They only add value if they’re widely appreciated upgrades. Very personal or irreversible changes often reduce your potential buyer pool and can bring the price down.

How do I know if a price is too high?

Compare it to several comparable listings: if it sits clearly above the cluster with no obvious extra value (condition, accessories, service history), it’s probably overpriced.

Is it worth keeping gear at home hoping it will go up in value?

Only for genuinely special pieces (true vintage, limited runs, historically important models). For most modern gear, it’s safer to assume it will lose value over time, not gain it.